The Gatlin household, which operates Gatlin’s BBQ, is well known in Houston for barbecued meats. But it’s also about to be known for biscuits — accordion-esque in their levels, redolent of butter. And plump and garlicky barbecue shrimp. And miraculously crispy fried catfish.Whilst the normal preparations are outstanding — including achingly
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Chefs serving “reliable” fritto misto in landlocked spots generally enlist the help of airfreighted squid. That’s not how Joe Frillman does issues. His Italian-inspired Delicacies is authentically Midwestern. Which means fritto misto starring cheese curds and local mushrooms, relished by using a sassy glowing rosé made from grapes developed
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